Oceanography: Ocean Waves

Waves are nothing but the oscillatory movements that result in the rise and fall of the water surface.
Waves are a kind of horizontal movement of ocean water.
They are actually the energy, not the water as such, which moves across the ocean surface.
This energy for the waves is provided by the wind.

Wave crest and trough	The highest point of a wave is called the crest. The lowest point of a wave is called the trough.
Wave height	It is the perpendicular distance from the bottom of a trough to the top of a crest of a wave.
Wave amplitude	It is one-half of the wave height.
Wave period	It is merely the time interval between two successive wave crests or troughs as they pass a fixed point.
Wavelength	It is the horizontal distance between two successive crests.
Wave speed	It is the rate at which the wave moves through the water. It is measured in knots.
Frequency	The number of complete waves (or oscillations) that occur over a given period of time. Usually measured in cycles per second.

Type of Wave	Period	Wavelength	Depth of Influence	Source
Capillary or Ripple	< 1 second	< 2 cm	Very Shallow	Light wind,insects
Chop	1 – 10 seconds	1 – 10 m	Shallow	Strong wind
Swell	10 – 30 seconds	up to 100 m	Half of the wavelength	Storms
Tsunami	5 – 90 minutes	20 Km to 300+ Km	To the bottom	Earthquakes, Landslides, Volcanic eruptions, and more